Huascaran (6,768m/ 22,205 ft) - Peru's Highest

Location

If I get the opportunity again...I will definitely go.

Roger Phillips

I thought Aritza and his team were amazing. They all worked hard for us and each other to make the trip a success.  I have been on a lot of trips to mountains where camp food is prepared for me. I found on this trip the food was exceptional. Really good food was served up in sometimes quite difficult circumstances and conditions. It was a credit to the cook  Achilles. I thought the logistics of the trip were really good. Transport was there when we arrived at various locations from the mountains. Aritza had a very good support team of porters who worked well together and were happy in their work. This came across to me strongly. They were very helpful to both Simon and me and were keen for the trip to be a success.  If I get the opportunity to go to Peru again in the future and climb with Aritza in the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca I will definitely go.

More Information

Conditions on Huascaran - the Plan B

Due to varying mountain conditions exisiting on Huascaran from year to year - it is a rarely climbed peak and a significant achievement on any climbing resume.  However, a large crevassed area from Camp II to the Summit and the "La Canaleta" section of the climb which is exposed to avalanche & ice-fall make judging the right conditions imperative.   With Aritza living in Huaraz and his 25+ years experience in the Peruvian Andes - he is specifically skilled to judge whether conditons are suitable for a climb of Huascaran.    However, if for any reason, Aritza decides that the conditions are not suitable, an ascent of Alpamayo (5947m / 19,511 ft) will be substituted.  While not has high as Huascaran , Alpamayo is generally regarded as one of the World's most beautiful mountains.   The route on Alpamayo will be "French Direct" and will involve 7 pitches of 55 - 80 degree climbing.  

As always, acclimatization will the key to success on Huascaran or Alpamayo.

Starting this process from Huaraz, climbers will undertake several high altitude trekking trails to beautiful alpine lakes - Lake Wilcacocha & Ahauc.   Following will be an ascent of Pisco (5752m/ 18,871ft).  Pisco is an ideal acclimatization peak and also enjoys breathtaking views of the next objective - Huascaran.

If you would like to register your interest for 2017, please complete and return the booking form above.


Available Dates

Dates 2017    
Inquire about dates for 2019    

 

Difficulty

 

 

 

 


Price Details

Price  
Price on application  
   

 

 

What's Included

Package price is per person ex Lima. 
For inclusions and exclusions please refer to our Peru Trip Information Page


Itinerary / Trip Options (multi)

Day 1

Arrive in Lima. Transfer from airport to hotel.

Picture-123

Day 2

Transfer from Lima to Huaraz (3,090m). Hotel in Huaraz.

1-Huaraz

Day 3

Trek from Huaraz to Lake Wilcacocha (3,743m) and return.  Night in Huaraz.

trail-to-Lake-Willcacocha

Day 4

Trek from Huaraz to Lake Ahuac (4,580m) and return. Night in Huaraz

Ahuac-Lake

Day 5

Travel from Huaraz to Cebollapampa (3,850m) - a 3 hour drive.  From Cebollapampa we do a 5 hour return trek to Lake 69 (4,600m).  Overnight in Cebollapampa.

lake69

Day 6

Hike from Cebollapampa (3,850m) to the Pisco basecamp (4,600m)

cebollapampa2

Day 7

Travel from Pisco basecamp (4,600m) to Pisco moraine camp (4,950m).

On-the-Pisco-Morraine

Day 8

Pisco summit day (5,752m).  Return to Pisco basecamp via moraine camp. 

Pisco-Summit-day

Day 9

Hike from Pisco basecamp to Cebollapampa, and then transfer back to Huaraz.   Ovenight in Huaraz.

cellopampa

Day 10

Rest day in Huaraz.

IMG_3777

Day 11

Transfer from Huaraz to Musho (3 hours drive).  Hike Musho to Huascaran basecamp (4,200m)

Musho

Day 12

Husacaran basecamp (4,200m) to Camp I  (5,350m).

Up-to-Huascaran-C-I

Day 13

Camp I (5,350m) to Camp II Garganta (5,950m).

Arriving-CII-Garganta

Day 14

Camp II Garganta to Huascaran summit (6,768m) and return to Camp II Garganta.

Back-from-summit-6,400-m

Day 15

Contingency / Weather day

Huascaran-CII(Garganta)6,000-m

Day 16

Return from Camp II Garganta to Huascaran basecamp. 

Around-Canaleta

Day 17

Return form Huascaran basecamp to Musho and transfer back to Huaraz.  Overnight in Huaraz.

17-Huaraz

Day 18

Transfer Huaraz to Lima. Night in Lima

P1020252

Day 19

Transfer hotel in Lima to Jorge Chavez International airport for flights home.


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