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Summit : 2746m (9,006ft.)
North West Buttress : A classic remote peak situated in the Fiordland National Park. The rock in the Darran mountains is predominantly granite and thus offers superb and technical climbing. Although close to the road in distance, Tutoko is a truly remote peak due to the surrounding terrain.
Tutoko is the highest peak in the Darran mountains. It is rather imposing, rising out of the thick rain forest almost directly from the ocean. We fly into
the bottom of the north face. Bivouac at Turner’s bivvy, an incredibly huge overhanging rock. We then ascend the north face. The route is predominantly on excellent granite and up to technical grade 13 Australian / 5.7 US. There is a real sting in the tail on this peak, involving a fine airy traverse and an imposing headwall. Incredible views out to the Tasman Sea and north to Mount Aspiring, Aoraki/Mount Cook and the rest of the Southern Alps. Descent is by rappel down the route to the bivouac.
Click here to see photos of this ascent.
Logistics
| Duration |
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4 days fly-in and fly-out (plus 2 days weather contingency)
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| Season |
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November thru April
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Cost
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NZ$ 4,240* / person (1:1) or (2:2)
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| Access |
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Fly in, fly-out
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| Guide Ratio |
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1 guide : 1 client or
2 guides : 2 clients |
Prerequisites |
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14 hours return endurance required for summit day. Good balance and secure footing. Rock climbing experience an advantage. |
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Weather contingency
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A great bonus. These two days could apply to the START of your trip (day one could be delayed up to two days)
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Accommodation |
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Hut or tent or bivy |
More info |
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Tutoko information PDF (340KB)
Equipment list
Skills questionnaire
Registration form
Detailed equipment list
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* Package includes, air access, meals and energy snacks, technical equipment, hut and landing fees, guide fees, and 12.5% Goods and Services Tax.
Standard grading system for alpine routes in normal conditions
| 1 |
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Easy scramble. Use of rope generally only for glacier travel.
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| 2 |
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Steeper trickier sections may need a rope. |
| 3 |
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Longer steeper sections generally. Use of technical equipment necessary. Ice climbs may require two tools.
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| 4 |
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Technical climbing. Knowledge of how to place ice and rock gear quickly and efficiently a must. Involves a long day.
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| 5 |
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Sustained technical climbing. May have vertical sections on ice.
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| 6 |
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Multiple crux sections. Vertical ice may not have adequate protection. Good mental attitude and solid technique necessary. May require a bivvy on route and be a long way from civilisation.
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| 7 |
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Grade 7 and beyond is possible but not yet established in the region.
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