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Summit : 3754m (12,342 ft.) An expedition/ascent of Äoraki/Mount Cook with Aspiring Guides will take you to the highest point in Australasia, you will face challenges physical and mental far beyond those encountered in our everyday lives and relish the rewards of the summit that motivates many mountaineers.
Äoraki/Mount Cook is a serious mountain and not to be under-estimated due to it’s comparatively low altitude. It is comparable in length and difficulty to Arguille Verte in Chamonix, France and Mt. Huntington in Alaska.
Choose your route:
• via Linda Glacier --- Grade 3
• via Hooker Glacier --- Grade 3+ to 4
via the Linda Glacier from Plateau hut (Oct-mid Jan) This is the most common route. Access is by flight into the grand plateau. Plateau hut is situated at 2210m. This ascent route can take 15-24 hours depending on whether a bivvy or direct ascent is made. From here 3-4 pitches of moderate ice take us to the Summit Rocks. 3-4 pitches of mixed climbing follow through the rocks to the summit ice cap. The summit ice cap is exposed, generally only short sections need to be belayed. The ice cap leads to the summit.
The Hooker Glacier attraction (Oct-Mar route dependent) The first ever ascent of Aoraki/Mount Cook was from the Hooker glacier.
On January 2 1913 Freda Du Faur was guided along the summit ridge of Mt Cook by Peter Graham and Darby Thomson. This was a breakthrough ascent, in that doubters said it couldn't be done. Their access to this western side, was via the Hooker Glacier. Something that hasn't changed since 1913 is the remoteness and lack of air access. This means you climb the mountain in it's entirety rather than flying in half way. Safety is our priority. Due to this extra commitment we remain with the tradition of two guides with this route. Our aim is an ascent in the traditional style of climbing Aoraki/Mount Cook via more difficult routes other than the crowded Linda Glacier (the most common and easiest ascent route). The Linda Glacier route has always been known for its numerous objective dangers, including active icecliffs (seracs) and heavily crevassed terrain. These objective dangers are beyond any guide's control.
Click here to see photos of this ascent.
Logistics
| Duration |
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Linda Glacier route 6 days Hooker Glacier route 7 days
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Price |
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Linda Glacier 6 days - 1:1 from NZ$4,850 per person (includes flight in)
Hooker Glacier 7 days - 2:2 NZ$4,750 per person - 2:1 price on application
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Access |
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Linda Glacier: 6 days fly in Hooker Glacier: 7 days walk-in and out
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Guide Ratio |
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Linda Glacier: 1 guide : 1 client Hooker Glacier: 2 guides and 1 or 2 clients
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Aircraft |
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Air access included for Linda Glacier route only.
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Prerequisites |
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Previous mountaineering experience, and at least an advanced mountaineering course. A high level of fitness & good cramponing skills.
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| Weather contingency |
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A great bonus for fly in routes. This one day could apply to the START of your trip (day one could be delayed by a day)
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Accommodation |
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Hut or tent or bivy
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More info |
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detailed information on Cook - all routes PDF BOOK NOW Registration form Equipment list - detailed Skills checklist Area map of Mt Cook
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* Package includes, air access, meals and energy snacks, some rental equipment, hut fees, landing fees, guide fees, and 12.5% Goods and Services Tax.
Standard grading system for alpine routes in normal conditions
| 1 |
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Easy scramble. Use of rope generally only for glacier travel.
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| 2 |
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Steeper trickier sections may need a rope. |
| 3 |
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Longer steeper sections generally. Use of technical equipment necessary. Ice climbs may require two tools.
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| 4 |
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Technical climbing. Knowledge of how to place ice and rock gear quickly and efficiently a must. Involves a long day.
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| 5 |
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Sustained technical climbing. May have vertical sections on ice.
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| 6 |
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Multiple crux sections. Vertical ice may not have adequate protection. Good mental attitude and solid technique necessary. May require a bivvy on route and be a long way from civilisation.
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| 7 |
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Grade 7 and beyond is possible but not yet established in the region.
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