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Summit : 3027m (9928ft) Grade 2+ or 3+
On first seeing Mt Aspiring, from the edge of the Bonar Glacier, there is a moment of disbelief that you'll be able to climb it by any means. Viewed however from certain angles the ridges and faces don't look so precipitous and an ascent quite possible. Aspiring, often referred to as the `Matterhorn of the South', is similar to the Matterhorn of the Swiss Alps not only in shape but also in construction. They have both been carved by glaciers in a certain way which causes them to be referred to as horn peaks.
The North West Ridge of Aspiring is an ideal but challenging mountain for climbers who already have a basic grounding in alpine skills. There are a variety of rock and snow approaches that may be used to attain the upper slopes of the North West Ridge, with the ultimate choice being determined by your guide according to seasonal changes in glacial conditions. The classic South West Ridge offers sustained and exposed snow and ice climbing for the more technically adept. Good cramponing skills are paramount, and expect to be thrilled by the exciting finish to this wonderful climb.
An ascent of Aspiring takes on average 12 - 16 hours return from the standard point of departure. The walk out from the mountain is a further two days through spectacular alpine scenery. A good base level of fitness and endurance will ensure that you have a rewarding trip.
Alternatively, if conditions dictate, we ascend the entirety of the North West Ridge which involves climbing and traversing a series of rock ledges and gendarmes leading to the summit ridge. All of these routes are rewarding climbs.
Click here to see photos of this ascent.
Click here to see a great article in Outdoor Australia March 2009 (800kb)
Click here to read comments from the oldest person to climb Mt Aspiring
Logistics
| Duration |
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5 days fly-in and walk-out
(plus 1 day weather contingency)
or 7 days walk-walk (no helicopter option)
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Season |
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late September-April (winter ascents on application) |
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Cost
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NZ$ 3,750* / person (1:1)
NZ$ 3,550* / per person (2:2)
NZ$ 3,350* / per person (3:3)
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Access |
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Fly in, walk out |
Guide Ratio |
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1 guide : 1 client or
2 guide : 2 clients or
3 guide : 3 clients
if you think you're up to a 1:2 ratio check out our 8 day
Mt. Aspiring Expedition Course
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Prerequisites |
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Good balance and secure footing. Previous use of crampons, and a good level of fitness. Rock climbing or use of ropes a great advantage. |
Weather contingency |
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Day one of your trip could be delayed by a day. A free optional benefit of booking with Aspiring Guides. |
Accommodation |
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Hut or tent or bivy |
More info |
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Aspiring trip information PDF (340KB)
Equipment list - detailed
Registration form
BOOK NOW
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* Package includes, air access, meals and energy snacks, technical equipment, hut and landing fees, guide fees, and 12.5% Goods and Services Tax.
NEW Try our Expedition Mt Aspiring Course - 8 days 1:2 guide-client ratio - if you have previous climbing experience and want to be self-contained while climbing this magnificent mountain
Standard grading system for alpine routes in normal conditions
| 1 |
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Easy scramble. Use of rope generally only for glacier travel.
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| 2 |
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Steeper trickier sections may need a rope. |
| 3 |
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Longer steeper sections generally. Use of technical equipment necessary. Ice climbs may require two tools.
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| 4 |
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Technical climbing. Knowledge of how to place ice and rock gear quickly and efficiently a must. Involves a long day.
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| 5 |
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Sustained technical climbing. May have vertical sections on ice.
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| 6 |
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Multiple crux sections. Vertical ice may not have adequate protection. Good mental attitude and solid technique necessary. May require a bivvy on route and be a long way from civilisation.
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| 7 |
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Grade 7 and beyond is possible but not yet established in the region.
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