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Summit : 3497m (11,470 ft.) Grade 3+
NZ's second highest peak at 3497m (11,470ft), Mount Tasman (Rarakiroa) has some of the finest classic ice climbing routes in the Mt Cook / Westland area. It is one of the most striking ice summits in the world and presents a challenge to all mountaineers. It is a technical peak and a major commitment for both guide and client. Grade 3+ (approx AD to D European). The climb is more technical than an ascent of Aoraki/Mount Cook via the Linda Glacier route.
We allow a period of 6 days for the attempt. The climb starts from Pioneer Hut at 2300m on the Fox Glacier and ascends across the upper neve through an icefall to Marcel Col at 3000m. From here the route is moderate snow/ice climbing to the summit of Lendenfeld Peak (3194m) with a short descent to Engineer Col. The route continues from here up the North Shoulder of Tasman to the summit. Total height gain is 1200m. The climb is predominantly moderate snow and ice on a ridge with minimal objective danger and stunning views of the Tasman sea and Aoraki/Mount Cook itself. Pioneer Hut (2100m) is accessed from the Fox township on the West Coast, 3.5 hours drive from Wanaka.
Click here to see photos of this ascent.
Logistics
| Duration |
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6 days fly-in and fly-out (plus 2 days weather contingency)
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| Season |
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late September-April (winter ascents on application) |
| Cost |
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NZ$ 4,500* / person (1:1) or (2:2) |
| Access |
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Fly in*, fly-out *flight in included |
| Guide Ratio |
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1 guide : 1 client or
2 guides : 2 clients |
| Prerequisites |
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Previous mountaineering experience, and at least an advanced mountaineering course. A high level of fitness & good cramponing skills |
| Weather contingency |
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A great bonus. This one day could apply to the START of your trip (day one could be delayed by a day) |
| Accommodation |
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Hut or tent or bivy |
| More info |
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Tasman trip information PDF (340KB)
Equipment list
Skills questionnaire
Registration form
Detailed equipment list
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* Package includes, air access, meals and energy snacks, technical equipment, hut and landing fees, guide fees, and 12.5% Goods and Services Tax.
Standard grading system for alpine routes in normal conditions
| 1 |
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Easy scramble. Use of rope generally only for glacier travel.
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| 2 |
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Steeper trickier sections may need a rope. |
| 3 |
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Longer steeper sections generally. Use of technical equipment necessary. Ice climbs may require two tools.
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| 4 |
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Technical climbing. Knowledge of how to place ice and rock gear quickly and efficiently a must. Involves a long day.
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| 5 |
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Sustained technical climbing. May have vertical sections on ice.
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| 6 |
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Multiple crux sections. Vertical ice may not have adequate protection. Good mental attitude and solid technique necessary. May require a bivvy on route and be a long way from civilisation.
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| 7 |
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Grade 7 and beyond is possible but not yet established in the region.
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