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Mt Tasman
 
aspiring / Tititea cook / Aoraki brewster four day climbing expeditions franz-tastic fox to franz josef trek - 5 days alpine summit week cook & aspiring combo tasman climbs with no helicopters grade 5 alpine ice - Douglas Peak or Mt Hicks tutoko private guiding and instruction

"After many thank you's we have bestowed upon you, I again just want to say on behalf of the group how much we totally enjoyed the trip to Tasman. Each and every guide was a pro from beginning to end. We as a group could not have asked for more. Each and every person achieved their goal. That in itself speaks volumes for Aspiring Guides. We have all been to the Himalaya many times and also to NZ. Aspiring Guides head by Marty Beare over-shadows any previous Guided Trip we have been on. I wish you great success with your future - John Bentley, NSW Australia Feb 08. 

Robert Hawes, Wellington, NZ writes:
What was your overall impression? "Great - just being in the mountains is cool! I will be back - you are a good bunch of guys to deal with!"

tasman

Summit : 3497m (11,470 ft.) Grade 3+
NZ's second highest peak at 3497m (11,470ft), Mount Tasman (Rarakiroa) has some of the finest classic ice climbing routes in the Mt Cook / Westland area. It is one of the most striking ice summits in the world and presents a challenge to all mountaineers. It is a technical peak and a major commitment for both guide and client. Grade 3+ (approx AD to D European). The climb is more technical than an ascent of Aoraki/Mount Cook via the Linda Glacier route.

We allow a period of 6 days for the attempt. The climb starts from Pioneer Hut at 2300m on the Fox Glacier and ascends across the upper neve through an icefall to Marcel Col at 3000m. From here the route is moderate snow/ice climbing to the summit of Lendenfeld Peak (3194m) with a short descent to Engineer Col. The route continues from here up the North Shoulder of Tasman to the summit. Total height gain is 1200m. The climb is predominantly moderate snow and ice on a ridge with minimal objective danger and stunning views of the Tasman sea and Aoraki/Mount Cook itself. Pioneer Hut (2100m) is accessed from the Fox township on the West Coast, 3.5 hours drive from Wanaka. 
 
Click here to see photos of this ascent.


Logistics

Duration   6 days fly-in and fly-out (plus 1 day weather contingency) 
Season   late September-late March
Price  

NZ$ 4,850* 1 client : 1 guide 
NZ$ 4,700 per person 2 guides : 2 clients

Access   Fly in*, fly-out *flight in included, flight out extra
Guide Ratio   1 guide : 1 client or 
2 guides : 2 clients
Prerequisites   Previous mountaineering experience, and at least an advanced mountaineering course. A high level of fitness & good cramponing skills
Weather contingency   A great bonus. This one day could apply to the START of your trip (day one could be delayed by a day)
Accommodation   Hut or tent or bivy
More info   Tasman trip information PDF (340KB)
Equipment list - detailed
Registration form
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* Package includes, air access, meals and energy snacks, technical equipment, hut and landing fees, guide fees, and 12.5% Goods and Services Tax.


Standard grading system for alpine routes in normal conditions

  Easy scramble. Use of rope generally only for glacier travel.
2   Steeper trickier sections may need a rope.
3   Longer steeper sections generally. Use of technical equipment necessary. Ice climbs may require two tools.
4   Technical climbing. Knowledge of how to place ice and rock gear quickly and efficiently a must. Involves a long day.
5   Sustained technical climbing. May have vertical sections on ice.
  Multiple crux sections. Vertical ice may not have adequate protection. Good mental attitude and solid technique necessary. May require a bivvy on route and be a long way from civilisation.
  Grade 7 and beyond is possible but not yet established in the region.

Mt Tasman
   
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