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Mt Hicks
 
aspiring / Tititea cook / Aoraki brewster four day climbing expeditions franz-tastic fox to franz josef trek - 5 days alpine summit week cook & aspiring combo tasman climbs with no helicopters grade 5 alpine ice - Douglas Peak or Mt Hicks tutoko private guiding and instruction
grade 5 alpine ice - Douglas Peak or Mt Hicks

Climb one of the world's classic ice climbs with THE ice professionals.  You will face physical and mental challenges far beyond those encountered in our everyday lives and relish the rewards of a truly noteworthy ascent.

South Face Douglas Peak (Grade 5)
Douglas Peak is situated at the head of Fox Glacier, close to Pioneer hut. Both routes on the South Face follow classic lines, and offer superb steep ice climbing on an aesthetic mountain. The route length is 500m. The approach is one hour from Pioneer hut.

A warm up climb is necessary before the ascent of Douglas Peak. This is usually done on either Mount Mallory and Mount Alack which offer similar quality ice climbing but of shorter length. We provide two guides to enhance safety and allow the technically challenging terrain to be negotiated with speed and proficiency. Descent is either descending via the north ridge and Glacier peak or more often by rappelling the route.

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Mount Hicks (Grade 5)
Mount Hicks, at the head of the Hooker glacier (Mount Aoraki/Cook National Park) is one of NZ’s premier and most sought after peaks.

The south face, in particular has some of NZ’s finest technical ice climbs. Any route on the mountain is demanding and committing, especially if the “historically” normal descent route is used. The “right hand icefields” on the south face of Mount Hicks presents an excellent, moderately technical, and fine line to the summit of a mountain set amidst in a stunning arena of NZ’s highest peaks. The route crosses a bergschrund followed by 2-3 pitches of 70-80° ice before easing back to a 50° ice slope to the summit ridge. Descent is achieved by rappelling the route.

An ascent of the “Dingle Button Route” (grade 4-) on the south face of Mount Hicks is often used as a warm up climb.

We provide two guides to enhance safety and allow the technically challenging terrain to be negotiated with speed and proficiency.


Logistics
Duration  

Douglas Peak : 6 days plus 1 weather contingency day

Mt Hicks : 7 days

Price  

available on application

Access   Douglas Peak : fly-in and fly-out

Mt Hicks: walk-in and walk out 
Guide Ratio  

2 guides : 1 client
2 guides : 2 clients

Prerequisites   Previous mountaineering experience. Proficient with cramponing techniques and steep ice climbing. A high level of fitness
Accommodation   Hut and/or bivvy
More info  

Douglas Peak information PDF (340KB)
Mt Hicks information PDF (340KB)
Equipment list - detailed
Registration form
BOOK NOW
Skills questionnaire

* Package includes, air access where applicable, food, technical equipment, hut and landing fees, guide fees, and 12.5% Goods and Services Tax.


Standard grading system for alpine routes in normal conditions

  Easy scramble. Use of rope generally only for glacier travel.
2   Steeper trickier sections may need a rope.
3   Longer steeper sections generally. Use of technical equipment necessary. Ice climbs may require two tools.
4   Technical climbing. Knowledge of how to place ice and rock gear quickly and efficiently a must. Involves a long day.
5   Sustained technical climbing. May have vertical sections on ice.
  Multiple crux sections. Vertical ice may not have adequate protection. Good mental attitude and solid technique necessary. May require a bivvy on route and be a long way from civilisation.
  Grade 7 and beyond is possible but not yet established in the region.


 


 

Steep alpine ice
   
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