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Gavin, Dave & Cam's private instruction |
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> Gavin, Dave & Cam's private instruction
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Gavin, Dave and Cam attend a Private Instruction Course in NZ (March 2002)
Day 1
With much anticipation of the upcoming exciting mountaineering adventure, the
three of us, staying at the Matterhorn Lodge in Wanika – South Is. NZ, stirred
in the early hours of the morning with near zero sleep. Dave, Gavin and I –
otherwise known as “the party” (and not just for hard core rusty-nail drinking),
collected the mass of climbing gear, already packed in the large array of packs,
to meet up with the fourth member of the party at HQ. Simon, an Australian
working for Mount Aspiring Guide (MAG) for this particular adventure, was a
guide with a reputation that we were yet to discover. As we latter established
Simon is a gun climber, mad Subaru Turbo driver, impressive cook, comedian by
night, Scrabble genius (and not because of his Literature degree from Monash
University), and genuinely nice guy.
We meet Simon for the first time at MAG the day before to go over the essential
gear for the upcoming 10 day expedition. Simon vigorously rejected much of the
unnecessary climbing gear, and excessive warm clothing (like Gavin’s 6 pairs of
gloves – no kidding), considered unnecessary weight. But generally the party was
well equipped for the planned climbs of spectacular peaks around the extensive
Neve’s of the Fanz Josef Glacier.
We met up with Simon at MAG at 8:30am to find the Subaru full of food but not
much room for all the carefully planned g ear to take. Gavin was quick to assume
the position of master packer and after some extensive rearranging of Simons
Subba all the gear eventually fitted.
A very “Lord of the Rings” like drive through the spectacular low lands of the
South Is. filled the morning and we arrived 3hrs latter at Fox Glacier. Mmmm,
some last wholesome snacks at the Helicopter booking office were enjoyed, and
then it was off to the departure point. Perhaps it was at the first meeting of
the Helicopter pilot – the most unhappy pilot of all time, that Gavin’s first
bizarre attraction towards Daryl was initiated. A story to be elaborated at
another time.
Take off, into near perfect conditions following the graceful curves of Fox
Glacier, was shortly after up front, Dave and I observed the spectacular views
only to be interrupted by Daryl’s immediate visual accusation of “what have you
done!” after a concerning noise developed at the rear door of the chopper.
Before I could alert Daryl of the cause – a backpack strap wildly flapping
against the side of the chopper, Daryl had abruptly turned around for landing.
The problem was quickly fixed and it was up the Glacier in what felt like no
time. Wow – the upper Franz Josef Neve was an exciting sight. Snow, ice, rock
and sun – what else can be this good. The helicopter headed straight for
Centennial hut (2400m), positioned on a rocky Arete, and base for our 10 day
adventure. After a short radius turn above the landing area it was touch down,
and prompt unloading of gear. Conditions were perfect for the short downhill
hike to the hut and back to relocate the unloaded boxes of supplies into the
hut.
After reorganising gear and claiming the short supply of space remaining in the
hut, we were roped up for Glacier travel heading out South over the Neve for a
scouting session. An overhand knot is not that hard in most circumstances, but
the excitement of day 1 made this smallest of tasks when roping up more
challenging than normal – for me anyway.
It wasn’t long before the party was discussing the first day’s activities,
consisting of learning T-slot soft snow anchors and crevasse travel techniques,
over a hot earl grey tea.
Day 2
Not much sleep was had by all that night, probably due to the excitement of the
days to follow, and the hut was at capacity with another party of 10 on a level
2 Guide’s course. It was an early start – with backpacks packed the night before
it wasn’t long before hot tea and porridge was finished, and the party was
roping up for glacier travel and fitting crampons in the pre-sunrise dawn.
The plan was for an early climb of Meteor Peak (2624m). The glacier, in freezing
morning conditions, offered a very quick traverse to the base of the climb and
it wasn’t long before the first snow stake was in place and the first pitch was
underway. The climb required good front pointing and the snow conditions were
perfect for the crampons to take a good hold. Simon led the exciting climb at
great speed, as I scrambled after him. We eventually caught the first rays of
sunshine as we ascended across the ridge towards the summit - offering
spectacular views of the Neve bellow. For a first climb it was certainly tough
work and my description of the climb gives no indication of the surprising level
of physical exertion required.
After a short break it was time for descent consisting of down climbing over
“wheat-bix” rock and a final abseil over the Bergshrund.
It was back at the hut by 3:00 exhausted after our first climb but certainly re
ady for more. Before bed one of the guides from the other party gave an
informative lesson on alti tude sickness (offering a time to reflect on the
awful effects I had experienced in Nepal a few years ago). A rusty-nail (Scotch
& Drambue, otherwise known as apple juice) night cap and solar powered lights
out before 9:30.
Day 3
Disappointingly the weather had closed in and it was a day confined to the hut.
Some very informative lectures were give by the other party on such topics as
Prussik knots, personality types (with particular reference to the three novice
climbers who were all engineers) and Geology of the very young Southern NZ Alps.
We practised ascending with prussiks for the first time and Simon creatively
set up a crevasse rescue pulley system in the hut, which we practised to
perfection and was watched with some amusement by the other Guide party.
Day 4
Another early start and this time with Conway peak (2899m) the climbing
objective for the day – Grade 2- (“very hard core” on my own scale). The guide
party left very early that morning heading off the mountain. The climbing
conditions were mostly excellent with the snow resembling well packed
polystyrene balls. Some sections of the climb offered more challenging pitches
than day 1 with super crap “crumbling” ice-climbing sections to overcome. At
first I felt it appropriate to freak out but it was amazing how well good
cramponing and the use of ice tools can make the climb very achievable.
Unfortunately the astounding view revealed that the weather was starting to
close in before the final pitch to the summit, so a quick abseiling descent was
required. Simon impressively down-climbed the entire couloir – something that he
unconvincingly assured us was very simple. It was back to the hut for lunch,
tramping through slushy afternoon snow, before the weather threatened a more
challenging return journey.
That evening the hut rocked – and not due to the excessive crevasse rescue
practice from the rafters. The storm closed in, offering spectacular sounds of
thunder and snow belting the strongly built hut walls. Simon suggested that the
winds were up towards 90km/hr for it to have that much
Day 5
It’s cold, damn cold. We’re stuck in the hut with a complete whiteout, bellow
freezing temperatures, and 140km/hr winds outside, and we are all a little
dejected. After a lot of ice clearing outside of the hut to make visits to the
toilet an achievable mission, Simon attempts to cheer us up with a lecture on
the deathly da ngers of Avalanches. So we learn all about the terrain and
conditions providing high risk, as the snow outside builds up on each exposed
slope. Simmons very informative session (he actually knows a hell of a lot on
this subject) lasted to about lunch which was actually a very exciting
proposition as it meant turning on the stove for something warm. We learnt to
love toasted cheese and salami sandwiches. From this point on my diary fills,
page after page, with scoring from endless card games of 500. The party decided
to lounge around most of the day in their sleeping bags offering some relief
from the cold.
It was that afternoon that we discovered Simons secrete obsession with Scrabble
– a hidden gift for all guides.
Inventive attempts to keep warm involved skipping, ascending over knots using
prussiks and attempting Dave’s dodgy climbing challenge under the bunks. Gavin
and Dave even reluctantly converted to brewed coffee for the warming and Gavin’s
chainsaw imitations to stop.
Day 6
As above!
Day 7
Freezing night without the additional heat conduction of others in such a large
hut with just four occupants. But we soon forgot about the claustrophobia and
cramps created by being hut bound, when the weather spontaneously cleared that
morning. We launched ourselves out of sleeping bags and outside to view the most
allowing the opportunity for us to venture outside. Today was a skills day
consisting of throwing oneself down a crevasse so that our trust for each other
could be practised. We learnt all about a range of crevasse extraction
techniques including how not to squash Dave into the side of the crevasse when
using the unassisted technique. It took some practice.
Day 8
Woke up with great weather – what a relief. So the plan was to head out for the
day towards Halcome peak. The tough going tramping through very soft snow was a
good indication that the couloir up Halcome would be unclimbable (for us mere
junior climbers), so we targeted the impressive and legendary Vonbulough peak.
The vertical ice climbing up Vonbulough was so ace we decided to summit not once
but three times, and up what we claimed was a first ascent route up this
treacherous mountain!
Simon showed us the aggressive ice overhang move (see front page), and a few
other valuable techniques. I was astounded by the most remarkable views of Mt
Tasman and the Main Divide peaks as we climbed what was in comparison to the
surroundings not quite as hard core – but huge fun all the same. And this is
what it was all about.
The return journey back to the hut was hell. I thought the climbing was supposed
to be the difficult bit, but after a full day in the sun of climbing, the
snow-covered glacier had turned to mush. Crevasse avoidance and “keeping that
rope tight” – as Simon would insist, were the next challenges, and Simon was
right after a few knee deep “falls” into snow covered crevasse opening.
We arrived at the hut to find a party of 12 had arrived, and the hut capacity
was now exceeded. Most of our time was spent outside as the other group, less
experienced then us by 8 days!, pfaffed around getting organised for their first
night.
After yet another game of three-letter-word Scrabble (Simon wasn’t playing to
lift the standard), it was time for bed and for Gavin to compare chainsaw
imitations with fellow hut mates.
Day 9
Simon the legend decided we could fit in one more climb before flying out latter
that afternoon in pursuit of some technical ice climbing on the glacier. So it
was off early in the morning with Aurara peak in our sites. Okay, it was no
Everest, but an impressive peak all the same, with a few extreme ridges and
technical climbing. The peak was the most rewarding of them all, matched by
amazing views of the Southern Alps.
Simons radio call to our overly unexcited chopper pilot, Daryl, for a ride ba ck
to Fox was replied with a no-can-do due to weather condition. It wasn’t until
Daryl learnt that Gavin was one of the party members that he enthusiastically
found a way through the low cloud cover up to the Centennial landing site where
we caught a ride back to a very humid sea-level, the best shower ever, and a few
beers at the uncanny Fox Saloon Bar (every small NZ town has one).
And this concluded the most amazing lifetime experience. For me mountaineering
is an extension to seeing and experiencing the awe- inspiring alpine
environment. A top experience – I learnt heaps, met great people and enjoyed the
challenges of this amazing (and exhausting) activity. I’ll be back.
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