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If you are looking for a short stint in the mountains you can experience a fantastic and rewarding ascent in only four days. This could also be a first summit under the watchful eye of your guide.
We offer two different method of approach :
Fly-in and fly-out
• Mt Dixon (3004m) grade 2+ or 3-
• The Minarets (3040m) grade 2 photos
• Lendenfeld Peak (3194m) grade 2
"Short and Sweat" (walk-in and walk-out)
• Mt Earnslaw (2816m) grade 2
• Mt Brewster
• Mt Barth (2456m) grade 2+ photos
• Mt Barff (2245m) grade 2
• The Footstool (2764m) grade 2
• Mt Sealy (2627m) grade 1
Mt Dixon sits on the northern edge of the Grand Plateau, amongst the large and famous peaks such as Aoraki/Mt Cook and Mt Tasman (plus at least 6 other 3000+ peaks). Climbing Mt Dixon from the new Plateau hut (2100m) provides fantastic views of all of these majestic mountains and the Tasman glacier (NZ’s largest glacier). Fly into Plateau hut, and walk or fly out.
The Minarets are climbed from Centennial hut (2400m) which is situated on the West Coast of NZ. Combines alpine grandeur with the Tasman Sea views, and incredible sunsets to the west are something not to be missed. A moderately technical snow climb crossing the crevasse riddled Chamberlain snow field and the Geike snowfield, this climb is a rewarding test of physical and mental fitness, with views from the summit both out to sea and down the Tasman Glacier (NZ’s largest glacier). Fly into Centennial hut and fly out.
Lendenfeld Peak lies on the Main Divide of the Southern Alps next to Mount Tasman and across from Mount Cook. The climb starts from Pioneer Hut at 2300m on the Fox Glacier and ascends across the upper neve through an icefall to Marcel Col at 3000m. From here the route is moderate snow/ice climbing to the summit of Mt. Lendenfeld. The vista both east and west from Marcel Col and Lendenfeld Peak is hard to describe - something you won't believe you can experience. Fly into Pioneer hut and fly out.
Mt Earnslaw is situated at the head of Lake Wakatipu - an area that has high spiritual, cultural, historic and traditional associations. This area is protected by Ngai Tahu – a NZ Maori tribe. This mountain stands as a guardian over the pounamu (greenstone) resource. This area was also a main location for filming “Lord of the Rings”. The climb of this relatively accessible peak will take a fit person no time at all with some good instruction. It is a challenging peak, and will test stamina, technique, you will possibly cross your first glacier, and upgrade your climbing skills. There is a splendid view of the BIG mountains of New Zealand from the top. Access is via the Rees valley and four wheel drive track. A scenic beech forest hike takes you through tussock and then scree and snow to Wright Col where Esquilant Bivvy (2300 metres) is. This is your home for 3 nights. There is a couple of demanding days and all trips depart given a reasonable forecast. There is no helicopter involved in this ascent.
Mt Barth lies in the remote Ahuriri Valley which borders onto the Mount Aspiring National Park. It offers a true wilderness experience. This valley saddles with the Dingle, Hunter, South Huxley, South Temple and Maitland Valleys. (excellent fishing reported here !) The walk in offers varied terrain through bush, Beech forest, stream bank, shingle and boulder hopping through a canyon (our Shangri-La). A large bivvy rock is our camp, in the middle of the valley, beyond a major bluff. We climb Mount Barth from Canyon Creek bivvy rock. We cross the Thurneyson glacier and follow the West Ridge to the summit. There is no helicopter involved in this ascent.
Mt Barff lies in the Mt Aspiring National Park. You won’t get sick of the views of Mt. Aspiring from this peak. Mt Barff is located near the head of the West Matukituki Valley opposite Mount Aspiring. The track to Liverpool departs the west Matukituki track at Pearl flat. From here the track ascends through steep Beech forest in a way that this and the French ridge track are well renowned for. Exposed tree roots present themselves as welcome aid. Out of the trees the travel becomes exposed over tussock and shingle to the hut (1065m). The South East ridge (grade 2) A big day with lots of height gain. Cold conditions are the ideal to keep things firm for the descent.
The Footstool (grade 2+) sits on the main divide overlooking the confluence of the Mueller and Hooker valleys, with exceptional views of Mt Cook’s South Face. From the summit there are views to the Copland valley and the West Coast. We start walking from Mt Cook Village, walk in via hooker track travel up steep scree tussock and rock ledges to access Sefton Bivy nestled below Mt footstool and Mt Sefton. Climb Footstool (2764m), via main divide and return to Sefton bivy. Watch and listen the impressive ice calving off the Sefton icefall. Return to Mount Cook Village for well earned beers back at the Hermitage.
Mt Sealy (2627m) is an easier trip, to assist with becoming more comfortable in the mountains. At 1800 metres on the Sealy Range it’s in a great location to lookout on some of New Zealand’s highest peaks, including impressive icefall on Mt Sefton. A steep track through alpine scrub and herb fields leads to Sealy Tarns, then scree and snow to Mueller Hut (1800m). Relax and take in the imposing east face of Sefton and south Face of Mt Cook. Climb Mt Ollivier (1933m) and Kitchener. Climb Mt Annette – bivy on Annette plateau or return to Mueller hut. Climb Mt Sealey via the South west Face. The approach is via Annette plateau to Sladden saddle. Pitches of steep snow are followed by pitches of mixed ground to gain the ridge that leads to the summit. Abseil and descend same route.
Logistics
| Duration |
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4 days plus 1 day weather contingency |
| Season |
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late October - April |
| Cost |
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NZ$ 2,850* 1:1 or NZ$ 1,795 / person (1:2) flights extra |
| Access |
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see list at top of page |
| Guide Ratio |
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1 guide : 1 client or 2 guides : 2 clients |
| Prerequisites |
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No previous mountaineering experience necessary. Good fitness and endurance. Good balance and secure footing. |
| Weather contingency |
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A great bonus. This one day could apply to the START of your trip (day one could be delayed by a day) |
| Accommodation |
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Hut or tent or bivy |
| More info |
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Four ascents trip information PDF Equipment list - detailed Registration form BOOK NOW Skills questionnaire |
* Package includes, meals and energy snacks, technical equipment, hut fees, guide fees, and 12.5% Goods and Services Tax. Air access extra and can be shared with other climbers, depending on aircraft loadings at the time.
Standard grading system for alpine routes in normal conditions
| 1 |
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Easy scramble. Use of rope generally only for glacier travel.
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| 2 |
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Steeper trickier sections may need a rope. |
| 3 |
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Longer steeper sections generally. Use of technical equipment necessary. Ice climbs may require two tools.
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| 4 |
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Technical climbing. Knowledge of how to place ice and rock gear quickly and efficiently a must. Involves a long day.
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| 5 |
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Sustained technical climbing. May have vertical sections on ice.
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| 6 |
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Multiple crux sections. Vertical ice may not have adequate protection. Good mental attitude and solid technique necessary. May require a bivvy on route and be a long way from civilisation.
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| 7 |
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Grade 7 and beyond is possible but not yet established in the region.
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