Welcome to the FAQ page for our 2012 - Peru Climbing Adventure -

18 June - 5 July

Over the next months as we count down to the departure date, there is bound to be a load of questions. Inevitably everyone has the same question, so this will be a great resource for all the team to refer to. 

What will I need to complete before I join this trip?

Registration Form

Experience Resume - on line link

Medical Questionnaire & Fitness Statement

Your Travel Itinerary - please send through your details

Q. When is payment due?

A. Total Trip Price = US$4650. 50% is due to be paid to our NZ Foreign Exchange Account by 15 February, 2012 with the final 50% due 31 March, 2012.

It is probably easiest to contact your bank to do the payment and the details you need to give your bank for the transaction to be complete are as follows:
 
Bank: ANZ National Bank
Swift Address: ANZBNZ22
Account Name: Aspiring Guides Ltd
Account Number: ASPGLD-USD02
Bank Address: 215-229 Lambton Quay
 Wellington
 
Please note that some Bank systems may not accept account numbers of this type, but through your bank should be able to make payment easily. 

Booking Terms

Should I cancel :

• more than 60 days before departure - 30% of total price
• 15 - 60 days before departure -50% of total price
• less than 15 days = 100% of total price.

Departure date is deemed to be 5 pm 18 June, 2012 - NZ time. Cancellation must be advised in writing and will be effective from the date of receipt by Aspiring Guides. Cancellation charges can often be covered by your travel insurance, provided the reason for cancellation falls within the terms of the policy.

Getting to Lima

Key objective : - all meet at in Lima on 18 June at:-

Hotel Maury,
Jr.Ucayali
Lima-Peru
Phone:00 51 1 4288188
Its just very close to the main Square(Plaza De Armas) in Lima and around 30 minutes from the airport.

The flight from Auckland to Santiago/Lima always arrives very late in the evening - around 11pm. As mentioned, if you were all on the same flight there would obviously be some advantages for meeting and arranging group transport to the hotel. But it's up to you what you want to do in this regard.

The cost of this accommodation in Lima before and after the trip is included in the trip price, but not meals or snacks in either Lima or Huaraz (ie., no food is included when not on expedition)

If delayed en-route to Peru – and you won’t make your appointment with us, call us at +64 3 443 9422 and if the office is closed call +64 25 301 677. 

Accommodation in Huaraz

Some of you have asked where you will be staying in Huaraz. Aritza has advised: Hotel San Sebastion - http://www.sansebastianhuaraz.com/english/ see their website for full details.

NZ Travel Agent

Gary Tate who owns Latin Link Tours http://www.latinlink.co.nz/ can organise flights for you to Lima. Latin Link Tours is a bonded NZ travel agent with all the usual financial security.

Money

You are responsible for accommodation & meals and general expenses whilst in Lima and Huaraz. If you allow US$50 per day you should be well covered. In addition you will need money for general expenses, souvenirs etc. as well as a contingency fund.

We suggest you bring US$ traveler cheques and cash in small denominations. Credit cards are useful in emergencies but are not widely accepted. Peruvian soles cannot be purchased outside Peru, but money can be changed at the airport, in Lima and in Huaraz. Helps if you know how to count in Spanish/Castellano!

Q. How many climbers / guides on the trip?

There is a maximum of six climbers and 3 guides. The trip is being organised and controlled by Aritza Monasterio UIAGM who works the summers season with Aspiring Guides here in NZ. Accompanying you will also be Tony Donaldson NZMGA. 

Q. Insurance?

All participants must have insurance that will cover the cost of rescue and evacuation. Check to see if your existing health plans cover this and if not buy travel or rescue insurance that covers costs resulting from mountaineering accidents or illnesses. 

New Zealand members of the New Zealand Alpine Club are eligible to purchase cover through the club http://alpineclub.org.nz/club/insurance/international-climbing-travel

Q. Training

Proper conditioning will pay off in enjoyment and in the successful completion of the expedition. Stamina and cardiovascular fitness are most important, as they will help you adapt to altitude and help prevent exhaustion, which in turn will make you less prone to mountain sickness.

An aerobic workout of 30 to 60 minutes, 3-4 times a week will improve cardiovascular fitness. Running, cross-country skiing and cycling are all excellent for training. If not already training start slowly and gradually build up. Hiking with a heavier pack will help build strength and stamina.

NZ Shakedown Trip - April 2012

It may be worth thinking about having a 4 day climbing trip with Aritza and/or Tony before going to Peru - a chance to refresh some skills & fitness, check equipment and get to know each other. 
 
Peru is usually quite dry during this climbing period (June/July) and so clients are walking on hard dry glaciers...the crevasses are wide open..and in April in NZ, guess what? ...glaciers are dry and the crevasses are wide open = perfect training conditions!
 
So what we would consider is a 4 day non-helicopter trip based in the Mt Aspiring region. Suggested dates are in the week 18 - 21 April 2011. We would need a minimum of 3 to run this trip but we can be flexible on these dates in April - your feedback would be helpful. 
 
Trip Price = to be advised. Includes all food, trip transport, hut & park fees. To help you travel light, we will be offering free equipment rental to all of you for this trip.

Please contact Robyn or Andy at climb@aspiringguides.com to confirm your place.

Q. What equipment ?

Equipment And Clothing
The equipment and clothing you bring with you will play an essential role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and list carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification don't hesitate to call or write. There is room for substitution and changes but if you have any doubt do contact us.

Your clothing and equipment should be lightweight, durable and in good repair. You must be familiar with the function of your equipment. Make sure that it fits and that it works with other items of your equipment before you come. You don't want it to let you down at 18,000ft. Small additions can make life easier, for example short lengths of cord attached to zippers and wrist loops added to mittens.

Everything you bring should fit into a large duffel bag plus your climbing pack. We'll be leaving casual clothes and non climbing essentials in Huaraz while climbing. The donkeys can carry all our technical gear.

Once we're all assembled in Huaraz, we'll be doing a gear check and getting into the colder areas slowly, coming back to town to reorganize and give you a chance to beef up or shed any equipment.

Huaraz is at 3090m a.s.l. June/ July is actually Winter, but it is generally a dry time of year. Storms will come through during the 3 week climb and temperatures will plummet. You might change from shorts and t-shirt to long johns and down jackets in the same afternoon. Be prepared.

Detailed info on each of the items listed below can also be found at this link : detailed info on equipment.

Clothing
Keep in mind that temperatures can vary widely, you can freeze and swelter on the glaciers. When setting yourself up try to think in terms of a 'system'. Rather than buying single heavy garments, get clothing of varying thicknesses that can be 'layered' to achieve comfort and versatility. By adding or subtracting layers you can cope with a wide range of conditions and temperatures in reasonable comfort. Consider the system as a whole and make sure that it is adequate for all conditions. 

Bring one more layer than what would make you comfortable in NZ eg for lower body - quick dry pants, merino/polypro long johns, fleece pants, storm pants with full length zips... all combinations are possible for very cold starts.

Body

• Base layer top & bottom - polypro or merino eg Icebreaker, no cotton
• Mid layer light weight fleece or liner
• Climbing trousers - polymide/nylon or light weight fleece eg Mammut
• Soft shell synthetic insulating jacket eg Primaloft, synthetic down or fleece
• Shell parka (with hood) & pants (with side zippers) - water and windproof
• Down Jacket - a good thick mountaineering down jacket is compulsory - eg Rab or North Face - standard length - not too long so it doesn't interfere with the harness. It will be used mostly for warmth when at base camp but if a storm did blow in on the mountain you will need to keep it clear of the harness.
• Fleece pants
• Glacier Shirt
• T-SHIRTS (preferable not cotton) AND SHORTS 
• CASUAL CLOTHES for travel & town

Head

• SUN HAT with wide brim - great if it fits under your helmet
• COTTON SCARF for sun protection
• WOOL OR FLEECE HAT
• NECK TUBE or 'balaclava'
• SUN GLASSES; these should be good quality (to block our 98 to 100% of UV light & they should have side shields. If you wear prescription glasses you may want to invest in prescription glacier glasses (spare pair a good idea) 
• SNOW GOGGLES 

Feet

• MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS - it is imperative to have a comfortable boot. The best boot is one that fits you. If purchasing a pair on-line, make sure to have trid them on at your local store first.
  Many of you will already have your own. Plastic is not necessary, but works well. The temperatures at this time of year are about the same as Winter in NZ. It does freeze at night, but high end leathers are fine. If you really suffer from the cold, take your plastics, but they are a real pain on hard ice, so ultimately you need to compromise one thing for another.
• A comfortable pair of sturdy TREKKING BOOTS or hard wearing running shoes /approach shoes are required for the walk up/down the valley and at camp
• GAITERS full calf-length - We recommend getting some super gaiters (not just standard ones) to really boost the warmth factor.
• WARM SOCKS (3 pair)
• LINER SOCKS (3 pair)

Hands

• CLIMBING GLOVES - well insulated climbing gloves fingered with wrist loops (Dachsteins/fiberpile)
• Lightweight glacier gloves (polypro or fleece) - 2 prs
• High Altitude Waterproof OVER MITTS with wrist loops

Personal Camping Gear

• SLEEPING BAG - 850g plus weight, winter rated bag (4 seasons in NZ). Bear in mind that you'll probably end up wearing long johns and down jacket at night as well
• THERMAREST with repair kit
• CLOSED CELL FOAM PAD - as the thermarest doesn't insulate against the cold we recommend a foam pad as well (these can be purchased cheaply in Huaraz) 

It is possible to hire all this kind of stuff in Huaraz, but it is prefereable to have your own with you. A lot of the hire gear over there is pretty low in quality or really old and over repaired.

Climbing Equipment

Climbing gear is limited and expensive in Peru. Best to buy all equipment in advance. It is possible to hire some of this equipment in Huaraz. 
Ask us for more details. 

• SIT HARNESS
• BELAY DEVICE
• PRUSSIC SLINGS - (6mm) 1 x 2.8m and 2 x 1.6m (loop length) The bare minimum on your harness is 1 long and 1 short prusik. The long one should be roughly long enough to go from toe to navel. the short one should be long enough to stretch from navel to chin. Variations can be made for personal preference. 
• CARABINERS - screw lock x 4, snap link x3 Lightweight is good in the alpine environment. Wire gates are usually lighter. The straight and bent gate is usually a variation to allow for easier clipping. So for each straight gate there will be a matching bent gate.
• SLING - 120cm sewn spectra
• CRAMPONS. 'Step-in' types or heel bail. The best crampon is a pair that fit your well fitting boots. Some examples : Black Diamond Contact Strap Crampons with ABS plates, or if you have a rigid boot that will take a heel bail the grivel g12 newmatic crampons with antibott device. Modern crampons are pretty reliable. It is possible to break some modern crampons, but we won't be carrying any spares on the climb. If something breaks we'll have some wire and straps to improvise with
• SPARE PARTS for crampons 
• ICE AXE, short (55cm) with curved pick eg grivel g1 ice axe or the black diamond raven ice axe , with leash
• ICE HAMMER - 45-50cm with leash
• HELMET 
• Collapsible WALKING POLES (optional)
• ICE SCREW - Sensible to carry one on the glacier. If you are only buying one, get the longest (22cm) and if you buy a second get a 19cm. eg black diamond express ice screw

Luggage

• Large capacity 'EXPEDITION' PACK - a 55 to 60 litre pack is a good all round size - with 2 loops for ice axe & crampon attachments
• DUFFEL BAG large enough to contain big pack & able to be locked. This is for putting your pack in when it is on the burro and provides good protection for your gear. Easier for burro if it doesn't have wheels.
• PADLOCK and keys for duffel bag 

Miscellaneous Personal

• WATER BOTTLES, 2 x 1L wide mouth
• THERMOS FLASK 
• CUP, BOWL & EATING UTENSILS Bowls and utensils can be bought in the market in Huaraz. Plastic ware and utensils are all pretty cheap
• WATCH (with alarm) 
• SWISS ARMY KNIFE or Leatherman
• CAMERA & memory card
• EAR PLUGS
• HEADTORCH, with LED plus spot beams - with spare batteries (can be bought in Huaraz) and bulb 
• Assorted STUFF SACS. Useful for carrying food & gear etc., try to organize all your gear into these. 
• PEE BOTTLE ( avoid nocturnal excursions) (Robyn's comment : girls a large plastic peanut butter jar works well!)
• READING MATERIAL 
• ELECTRONIC DEVICES- bring relevant plug adaptors if you want to recharge camera/ Ipod/ head torch batteries. Do not rely on one charged set.....have a second charged set at the ready.
  Plugs are slightly different shaped in Peru, but the same voltage (220V). NZ/ Australia is a 2 pin, diagonal system. South America is a 2 pin straight system. If you have a bunch of things to recharge after every trip then carrying a NZ/Oz multiboard with one local adaptor is a great way to recharge everything at the same time. 
• NOTE PAD & PENCIL 
• ZIP LOCK BAGS 
• PERSONAL TOILET ITEMS
• If you have a particularly favourite TRAIL SNACK from NZ or Australia you may like to bring your own store. 

Personal Medications

• THROAT LOZENGES 
• ELASTOPLAST 
• PAIN RELIEF/ ANALGESICS Aspirin, Ibuprofen, Panadeine Forte
• INSECT REPELLENT & ANTIHISTAMINE
• BLISTER KIT - tape, 'Moleskin' & '2nd skin' 
• BETADINE
• ANTI-INFLAMMATORY - diclofenac
• ANTI-BIOTICS
• HAND SANITIZER
• For DIARRHEA 'Imodium' or 'Lomotil' 
• SUN BLOCK should be full screen with PABA & not a tanning cream (2-Presun 29, 2-Zinc Oxide)
• LIP SCREEN (full block) 
• 'POLAR PURE' or AQUATABS for water treatment (or tincture of iodine)
• STERIPEN : We will be boiling all drinking water, but some people may wish to carry a steripen to purify water sourced directly from streams.
• SLEEPING MEDICATION (see your physician for a prescription, please inform guide when using these) 
• DIAMOX 250MG tablets - ask your doctor about the use of this
• CHEMICAL HAND WARMERS FOR SUMMIT DAY - probably not available in Huaraz, buy in Oz or NZ
• Other personal medication
  
  Gastrointestinal problems will be your biggest enemy so always have some hand sanitizer ready for use. If you are talking to your GP about getting items on prescription then also ask about the use of altitude medicine Diamox, Dexamethazone, Nifidipene. Flu jab?

Meals & Accommodation

On the mountain there will be a mixture of locally bought and imported foods. Please inform us of any special needs you may have, as we may be able to incorporate them into the menu. On the mountain you will be camping in mountain tents that we supply. In Huaraz you will be staying at a comfortable hostel.

Tipping

Health And Vaccinations
Due to the erratic sanitary conditions it is important to take lots of care. Avoid drinking untreated water, eating unpeeled fruit and vegetables. Don't eat food from street vendors or roadside stands. Purify water by adding Aquatabs or Polar Pure crystals. 

Check with your local health unit to see what vaccinations you are going to need for the trip - Typhoid, Tetanus-Diptheria, Hepatitis A and B, Polio, Rabies?). Malaria and Yellow Fever are not present in Lima or Huaraz but if you are travelling to other areas of Peru before or after the trip it is advisable to check this out.

Have a look at this advisory website on health and vaccinations for Peru. http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/peru.aspx

Security
Peru is a poor country and your possessions will be attractive to some. Minimize the risk of theft by always watching your baggage when on the move and by not wearing obviously expensive jewelry and watches. Keep passport and documents in a pouch worn under your clothing. Keep money and travelers cheques in different places. Don't keep too much money in your wallet and make sure what there is, is in small bills.

Useful Links

General travel in Peru : http://www.andeantravelweb.com/peru/tips/index.html

General travel in Peru : http://www.lonelyplanet.com/peru/practical-information/

Huaraz : http://www.lonelyplanet.com/peru/huaraz-and-the-cordilleras/huaraz