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Aspiring Guides is proud to offer this exciting Peruvian adventure. With over 25 years experience in the Cordillera Blanca, Aritza Monasterio will be leading the expedition. This trip is designed for strong climbers who want to test themselves at altitude. As part of a small, well organized team, you will be guided through acclimatization and two confidence building preparatory climbs, culminating in an ascent of the magnificent Chopicalqui (6,354m).
After acclimatizing in Huaraz, the climbing starts in the Ishinca Valley, famous for it’s spectacular vertical relief with peaks up to 6,000m surrounding this lovely valley. Using donkeys, we establish a base camp at 4,350m and climb two peaks, Ishinca and Tocllaraju. The views of the surrounding Cordillera Blanca are unforgettable. From here we move to the technically challenging Chopicalqui. We place two camps above base camp before tackling the up to 60 degree snow and ice ridge leading to the summit.
Accompanying you on this trip will be Tony Donaldson, NZMGA who has worked with Aspiring Guides for over 6 years now. Tony is a strong mountain guide who has also climbed at altitude in the Himalay.
Please register your interest for 2012
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Logistics
| Duration |
18 days in Peru |
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| Dates |
18 June - 5 July, 2012 |
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Price |
US $ 4650 includes :
- guide fees, porter fees, burro & burro driver fees
- road transfers (Airport-Hotel-Airport, Lima-Huaraz-Lima, Huaraz-Mountains-Huaraz)
- Accommodation (2 nights in Lima and 6 nights in Huaraz), 3*** category in DWB rooms.
- all meals and energy snacks whilst on Ishinca and Chopicalqui expeditions
- lunches on acclimatization day treks
- all group camping and cooking equipment
- Huascaran National Park Tickets
Not included :
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Guide Ratio |
1:2 clients - nb minimum trip number = 4 pax
2 guides : 4 clients OR 3 guides : 6 clients |
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Prerequisites |
Climbers need to be fit and have previous crampon and ice axe experience. You do not need previous experience at altitude, however the combination of steep climbing and high elevations requires a high level of endurance and physical fitness. |
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| Accommodation |
2 nights in Lima and 6 nights in Huaraz, 3*** category in DWB rooms.
Camping whilst on expeditions |
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| Booking |
To book your place please complete a registration form. NZ$200 non refundable depost require to secure your spot. |
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| Equipment |
A full equipment list will be provided on booking. |
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Itinerary
| day 1 |
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Arrive in Lima. Transfer from airport to hotel. |
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18 Jun |
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| day 2 |
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Transfer from Lima to Huaraz (3,090m). Hotel in Huaraz. |
| 19 Jun |
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day 3
20 Jun |
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Acclimatization day trek Huaraz - Rataquenua (3,300m) - Pukaventana (3,600m) - Huaraz. Several days are needed to acclimatize to the high elevation. This day hike includes panoramic views from high above Huaraz. Night in Huaraz. |
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day 4
21 Jun |
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Acclimatization day trek Huaraz - Lake Churup (4,485m) or Lake Auhac (4,580m) - Huaraz. Night in Huaraz. A great day to boost your acclimatization. After a one hour drive to Pitec we will walk with day packs and have lunch at the waters edge at Laguna Churup, views of the SW face of Churup. |
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day 5
22 Jun |
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Huaraz - Pashpa - Ishinca Base Camp (4,350m). The Ishinca valley is often regarded as the best valley to visit because of its beauty, proximity to Huaraz and quality of peaks. We will transfer to the tiny Quechua village of Pashpa and load up our burros (donkeys) and begin the trek to base camp. You can choose to travel with just a light daypack or allow your burro to carry your gear. |
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day 6
23 Jun |
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Ishinca Base Camp - Ishinca Morraine Camp (4,800 m). After spending the night at base camp we will hike further up the valley and camp at the edge of the glacier. This will allow us to push quickly to the summit of Ishinca the following day and maximize our acclimatization efforts. |
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day 7
24 Jun |
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Morraine Camp - Ishinca Summit (5,530m) - Morraine Camp - Base Camp. Summit day on Ishinca involves climbing and traversing on easy angled, glaciated terrain on the NW slopes to the summit. Roping up and travelling in crampons is essential, but this peak is non-technical and is rated approximately PD- or NZ 1+. The summit of Ishinca offers excellent views from the head of the Ishinca valley towards neighbouring Ranrapalca and Tocllaraju (our next objective). |
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| day 8 |
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Rest - contingency day in Base Camp |
| 25 Jun |
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day 9
26 Jun |
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Base Camp – Tocllaraju morraine camp (4,900m). After some rest we will climb up to a camp just on the edge of the glacier depending on conditions. This will allow an early start on crampons the following day. Camp affords some beautiful views of the steep West face. |
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day 10
27 Jun |
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Morraine Camp - Tocllaraju Summit (6,032m) - Morraine Camp - Base Camp. From an early start on moraine camp we will negotiate some crevassed terrain to climb one of the most beautiful peaks in this range via the NW ridge. This is a classic climb, graded at D or NZ grade 3 due to the short steep summit pyramid at about 55 degrees. Summit to base camp could take 8-10 hours. |
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day 11
28 Jun |
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Base Camp - Pashpa - Huaraz. Descend back down the Ishinca Valley through grass fields and native forest to Pashpa. One hour transfer to Huaraz. Night in Huaraz. |
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day 12
29 Jun |
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Rest in Huaraz. |
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day 13
30 Jun |
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Huaraz - Llanganuco - Chopicalqui Morraine Camp (4,900m). Our transport takes to the town of Yungay and up the Llanganuco Valley. Chopicalqui Morraine Camp is reached after a steep climb up the side of the one side of the Chopicalqui glacier. Around 4-5 hours from the road. |
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day 14
1 Jul |
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Morraine Camp - Camp I Chopicalqui (5,300m). Further easy climbing through relatively straightforward glaciated terrain to a high camp near the southwest ridge. This will allow some rest before an early start on summit day. 3 hours |
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day 15
2 Jul |
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Camp I - Chopicalqui Summit (6,354m) - C I - Moraine Camp. This is one of the most prominent peaks in the area and affords unparalleled views of the Huascaran national park. Summit day involves negotiating 30 degree slopes through glaciated terrain, culminating in a summit pyramid of approx 55 degree ice. It can often involve a short crux of 80 degree ice for up to 10m. It is graded at PD+ or NZ grade 2+ |
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day 16
3 Jul |
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Morraine Camp - Llanganuco Road - Huaraz. Transfer Llanganuco - Huaraz. Night in Huaraz. |
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day 17
4 Jul |
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Transfer Huaraz - Lima. Night in Lima. |
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day 18
5 Jul |
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Transfer Hotel - Airport for return flight. |
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