LIABILITY WAIVER This mountain conditions advisory is provided as a public service by Aspiring Guides Ltd. It is intended as an advisory only. Those endeavouring to travel into any of the areas mentioned do so at their own risk. Backcountry travellers should be well informed about current weather, snowpack and avalanche hazards and should not travel alone. All members of your party should wear a transceiver (457khz) and know how to use it. In addition everyone should carry a shovel, and a probe. Travellers should advise someone where they are travelling, and when they will next make contact.

Topic: Plateau - Linda 11/2/10

Comment: Plateau Glacier neve is in good condition for walking to and fro, but the surrounding routes are now in late-season phase with difficult or no access due to crevasses and rockfall.

Dixon is accessible by the full SE Ridge and by the SW Ridge (just). Probably still ok to rappell the standard approach route.

Syme and Silberhorn are both cut off.

Linda is marginal, with the current route requiring a difficult manoeuvre thru at least one crevasse, and time-wasting zig-zagging in the throat of the Gunbarrels.

Zurbriggens is dangerously stupid.

Cinerama Col route is ok.

Entered by: Marty B

Topic: Tasman Saddle - 21 Jan 2010

Comment: >1m new snow 10th-11th Jan fell on top of unusually extensive snow cover in the Tasman Valley area. This has quickly settled, but crevasses are generally well filled in and access is open to most places. Main exception: the Anna Glacier access to Elie de Beaumont looks difficult and dangerous, but possible.

Ice climbing is best in lower Cook Strait ice fall (above Upper Neve).

Entered by: Marty B

Topic: Tasman saddle 13th Jan 2010

Comment: A large amount of new snow from recent storms (60-100cm) pushed the avo danger up to high for a short time. The higher freezing level today (3000m) will see the danger drop further (currently moderate). The snowpack was largely wet graupel at 2400m, and the old surface was hard ice. This will probably be the lingering instability.

Solar aspects were avalanching constantly yesterday on departure, but no major avo's observed on the loaded E/SE aspects.

Excellent snow coverage and access for the time of year. Reports that the crux to access is low down on first icefall of Elie de Beaumont, with a short traverse under Walter, but still possible.

Entered by: Gavin Bonnatti

Comment: Access through the lower Linda is currently easy if tenuous. The route takes a central line from bottom to top, with wiggles through numerous crevasses and the occasional marginal snow bridge. All-in-all, it's easier than 4 weeks ago. The upper Linda is straightforward.

Conditions above the Linda Shelf were hard ice as a result of rain to above 3,700m followed by cold temps. New snow has not bonded to the rain crust. The Summit Rocks were well-iced and climbing conditions here were good.

The ice cap was icy.

Entered by: Marty B

Comment: Fly in.Acces to Mt. Sealy through the col below Mt Darby,and traverse on snow slopes and rock ledge to Sladden Saddle,descent to the Metelille Glacier and North couloir,snow-ice on colouir very soft,poor conditions,last short pich rock cheminee of rotten rock,descent NW ridge,2 short rap and SW face lowering.Snow in the afternoon wet and slipery on the traverse to col below Darby.Same way back to Barron saddle Hut.

Mt Burns S face,Welchman glacier trip,and take the face.

Bergschrund good close the middle left.snow sometimes good,but other poor condition for the sun,ice on an icefall better.Exit to the ridge soft snow,close to the summit left.

Descent via Bernard Col and Welchman Glacier around mountain to get our steps.Afternoon deep snow buit easy way on the glacier back to hut.

Entered by: Aritza Monasterio

Comment: Access up Gardner still posible through lower icefall. Middle then climbers left. Couple of thin bridges which might not last much longer. Access to Pudding rock hard right of glacier. Threatend by Seracs above.

Gardner to Empress good. Middle then left of glacier near top corner. Should remain so into jan.

Earls gap no rap required. Go hard left once through gap. Would require couple of pitches before you are able to Short rope again.

Porter Col. Looked broken but way through on right to access col.

Entered by: Davie R

Topic: Plateau/Linda 29/11/09

Comment: Extensive snow cover but ironically the Linda Gl is already significantly cut by crevasses. The lower Linda requires access either on climber's left (long detour) or climber's right under Silberhorn (steeper, threatened approach). Some meandering in lower Linda with reasonably narrow bridges, while the upper Linda is more of a straight shot altho bridges are not substantial. Summit Rocks are full of snow, but snow/ice over rocks is brittle. Ice cap is mostly ok cramponing. Linda Shelf ice cliffs are threatening.

Dixon has a large bergschrund at base of E F route. Access to Haast basin looks very broken.

Avalanche debris blocks Ball Road between Blue Lakes and Celmisia Flat.

Entered by: Marty B

Topic: Tasman Glacier : 27 Nov 2009

Comment: Great glacial conditions, Anna Gl. route on Elie De Beaumont still looks to be on. Underlying ice layer exisits around the Tasman Neve as Marty had mentioned was evident in Aspiring NP, however the overlying snowpack seems to have bonded well to this layer for the time being. Could be different with significant rainfall or in warm afternoon conditions?

Remarks conditions very good, Martys assessment from a few days ago still relevant.

Entered by: Johnny