|
Summit: 2515m grade 2
Mount Brewster is a remote peak accessed from the Haast Pass. Driving up the pass means that the approach is kept to a minimum for a non-helicopter accessed trip.
A refreshing river crossing is followed by a solid three hour uphill push through Beech forest. Once you pass the tree line you are getting close. The new Brewster hut is located on a beautiful tussock terrace with views toward the Makarora valley and the surrounding peaks of Armstrong and Brewster.
To get to Brewster, the slopes of Armstrong are sidled on narrow tussock benches. Steep creeks quickly transform into deep gorges below. Now the ridge is followed adjacent to the Brewster Glacier. There is more than one way to climb Mt Brewster, depending on the mountain and conditions. On the South West face (grade 2+) snow gullies are followed to the summit ridge. For the West Ridge route (grade 2) the glacier is traversed and then mixed travel along the ridge to the summit. The view looking along the spine of the divide towards Mt Cook is a very special one.
Descent is via the south face, traversing to regain the approach route on the ridge. The approach there and back adds to an already impressive day.
photos
Logistics
| Duration |
|
4 days walk-in and walk-out (plus 1 day weather contingency) |
|
Season |
|
late October -April |
| Cost |
|
NZ$ 2,850* (1:1) or NZ$ 1,795 per person (1:2) |
| Access |
|
Walk in, walk out |
| Guide Ratio |
|
1 guide : 1 client or 1 guide : 2 clients |
| Prerequisites |
|
No previous mountaineering experience necessary. Good fitness and endurance. Secure footing. |
| Weather contingency |
|
A great bonus. This one day could apply to the START of your trip (day one could be delayed by a day) |
| Accommodation |
|
Hut or tent or bivy |
| More info |
|
Brewster trip information (817KB)
Equipment list - detailed
Registration form
BOOK NOW
Skills checklist |
* Package includes meals and energy snacks, technical equipment, hut fees, guide fees, and 12.5% Goods and Services Tax.
Standard grading system for alpine routes in normal conditions
| 1 |
|
Easy scramble. Use of rope generally only for glacier travel. |
| 2 |
|
Steeper trickier sections may need a rope. |
| 3 |
|
Longer steeper sections generally. Use of technical equipment necessary. Ice climbs may require two tools.
|
| 4 |
|
Technical climbing. Knowledge of how to place ice and rock gear quickly and efficiently a must. Involves a long day.
|
| 5 |
|
Sustained technical climbing. May have vertical sections on ice.
|
| 6 |
|
Multiple crux sections. Vertical ice may not have adequate protection. Good mental attitude and solid technique necessary. May require a bivvy on route and be a long way from civilisation.
|
| 7 |
|
Grade 7 and beyond is possible but not yet established in the region.
| |
