| New Zealand climbing calendar |
Standard NZ grading system is used for alpine routes in normal conditions.
| 1 |
Easy scramble. Use of rope generally
only for glacier travel. |
5 |
Sustained technical climbing.
May have vertical sections on ice. |
| 2 |
Steeper trickier sections may need a rope. |
6 |
Multiple crux sections. Vertical ice
may not have adequate protection. Good
mental attitude and solid technique necessary.
May require a bivvy on route and be a long
way from civilisation. |
| 3 |
Longer steeper sections generally.
Use of technical equipment necessary.
Ice climbs may require two tools. |
7 |
Grade 7 and beyond is possible but not
yet established in the region. |
| 4 |
Technical climbing. Knowledge of how to
place ice and rock gear quickly and efficiently
a must. Involves a long day. |
|
|
|
| activity type |
programme |
# days |
dates |
max ratio |
trip type |
experience required |
|
|
|
| OCTOBER |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| alpine ice course |
Steep Alpine Ice Course |
8 |
set dates |
1:3 |
adv course |
Previous rock, mountaineering |
|
|
|
| ascent |
4 Day Ascents - Barth, Dixon, Minarets, Earnslaw |
4 |
late Oct on |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness & endurance, good balance |
|
|
| ascent grade 2+ |
Mt Aspiring via NW ridge & ramp |
5 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness, good balance |
|
|
|
| ascent grade 3+ |
Mt Aspiring via SW ridge |
5 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, good fitness & balance |
|
|
| ascent grade 3 to 4+ |
Mt Cook/Aoraki 6 or 7 days route dependent |
6 |
late Oct on |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, advanced mountaineering course |
|
| ascent |
Combo - Cook and Aspiring |
10 |
late Oct on |
1:1 |
ascent |
Extremely fit & strong, good cramponing |
|
|
| alpine ice ascent gr 5 |
SF Douglas Peak - grade 5 alpine ice |
6 |
any |
2:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, advanced mountaineering course |
|
| alpine ice ascent gr 5 |
Hicks - grade 5 alpine ice |
7 |
any |
2:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, advanced mountaineering course |
|
| ascent grade 3+ |
Mt Tasman |
6 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, high fitness, good crampon skills |
|
| climbing week |
Summit Week |
7 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
all levels |
none |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| NOVEMBER |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| intro skills course |
Mountain Skills Course - NZ's best course |
7 |
set dates |
1:4 |
intro course |
Prior outdoor experience |
|
|
|
| ascent course |
Mt Aspiring Expedition Course |
8 |
any |
1:2 |
adv course |
Previous mountaineering, good fitness |
|
|
| alpine ice course |
Steep Alpine Ice Course |
8 |
set dates |
1:3 |
adv course |
Previous rock, mountaineering |
|
|
|
| private skills |
Private Instruction Course |
6-10 |
any |
1:4 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| climbing week |
Summit Week |
7 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| ascent |
4 Day Ascents - Barth, Dixon, Minarets, Earnslaw |
4 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness & endurance, good balance |
|
|
| ascent grade 2+ |
Mt Aspiring via NW ridge & ramp |
5 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness, good balance |
|
|
|
| ascent grade 3+ |
Mt Aspiring via SW ridge |
5 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, good fitness & balance |
|
|
| ascent |
Mt Sefton |
5 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Good fitness & endurance, good balance |
|
|
| ascent grade 3 to 4+ |
Mt Cook/Aoraki 6 or 7 days route dependent |
6 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, advanced mountaineering course |
|
| ascent |
Combo - Cook and Aspiring |
10 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Extremely fit & strong, good cramponing |
|
|
| ascent grade 3+ |
Mt Tasman |
6 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, high fitness, good crampon skills |
|
| alpine ice ascent gr 5 |
Hicks - grade 5 alpine ice |
7 |
any |
2:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, advanced mountaineering course |
|
| alpine ice ascent gr 5 |
SF Douglas Peak - grade 5 alpine ice |
6 |
early Dec only |
2:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, advanced mountaineering course |
|
| rock |
Ready to Rock Course |
3 |
any |
1:4 |
rock |
none |
|
|
|
| rock |
Multi-pitch Rock Course |
6 |
any |
1:2 |
rock |
Good fitness |
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
all levels |
none |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| DECEMBER |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| intro skills course |
Mountain Skills Course - NZ's best course |
7 |
set dates |
1:4 |
intro course |
Prior outdoor experience |
|
|
|
| ascent course |
Mt Aspiring Expedition Course |
8 |
any |
1:2 |
adv course |
Previous mountaineering, good fitness |
|
|
| alpine ice course |
Steep Alpine Ice Course |
8 |
set dates |
1:3 |
adv course |
Previous rock, mountaineering |
|
|
|
| private skills |
Private Instruction Course |
6-10 |
any |
1:4 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| climbing week |
Summit Week |
7 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| ascent |
4 Day Ascents - Barth, Dixon, Minarets, Earnslaw |
4 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness & endurance, good balance |
|
|
| ascent grade 2+ |
Mt Aspiring via NW ridge & ramp |
5 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness, good balance |
|
|
|
| ascent grade 3+ |
Mt Aspiring via SW ridge |
5 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, good fitness & balance |
|
|
| ascent |
Mt Sefton |
5 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Good fitness & endurance, good balance |
|
|
| ascent grade 3 to 4+ |
Mt Cook/Aoraki 6 or 7 days route dependent |
6 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, advanced mountaineering course |
|
| ascent |
Combo - Cook and Aspiring |
10 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Extremely fit & strong, good cramponing |
|
|
| ascent grade 3+ |
Mt Tasman |
6 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, high fitness, good crampon skills |
|
| alpine ice ascent gr 5 |
SF Douglas Peak - grade 5 alpine ice |
6 |
early Dec only |
2:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, advanced mountaineering course |
|
| rock |
Ready to Rock Course |
3 |
any |
1:4 |
rock |
none |
|
|
|
| rock |
Multi-pitch Rock Course |
6 |
any |
1:2 |
rock |
Good fitness |
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
all |
none |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| JANUARY |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| intro skills course |
Mountain Skills Course - NZ's best course |
7 |
set dates |
1:4 |
intro course |
Prior outdoor experience |
|
|
|
| ascent course |
Mt Aspiring Expedition Course |
8 |
set dates |
1:2 |
adv course |
Previous mountaineering, good fitness |
|
|
| private skills |
Private Instruction Course |
6-10 |
any |
1:4 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| climbing week |
Summit Week |
7 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| ascent |
4 Day Ascents - Barth, Dixon, Minarets, Earnslaw |
4 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness & endurance, good balance |
|
|
| ascent grade 2+ 3+ |
Mt Aspiring |
5 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness, good balance |
|
|
|
| ascent |
Mt Sefton |
5 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Good fitness & endurance, good balance |
|
|
| ascent grade 3 to 4+ |
Mt Cook/Aoraki 6 or 7 days route dependent |
6 |
early Jan only |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, advanced mountaineering course |
|
| ascent |
Combo - Cook and Aspiring |
10 |
early Jan only |
1:1 |
ascent |
Extremely fit & strong, good cramponing |
|
|
| ascent grade 3+ |
Mt Tasman |
6 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, high fitness, good crampon skills |
|
| alpine rock ascent |
Mt Tutuko |
4 |
any |
1:1 |
alpine rock |
Endurance, good balance, previous rock climbing |
|
|
| rock |
Ready to Rock Course |
3 |
any |
1:4 |
rock |
none |
|
|
|
| rock |
Multi-pitch Rock Course |
6 |
any |
1:2 |
rock |
Good fitness |
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
all |
none |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| FEBRUARY |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| alpine trek course |
Darran Mountains alpine rock week |
7 |
any |
1:4 |
trek |
none |
|
|
|
| intro skills course |
Mountain Skills Course - NZ's best course |
7 |
set dates |
1:4 |
intro course |
Prior outdoor experience |
|
|
|
| private skills |
Private Instruction Course |
6-10 |
any |
1:4 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| ascent course |
Mt Aspiring Expedition Course |
8 |
any |
1:2 |
adv |
Previous mountaineering, good fitness |
|
|
|
| climbing week |
Summit Week |
7 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| ascent |
4 Day Ascents - Barth, Dixon, Minarets, Earnslaw |
4 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness & endurance, good balance |
|
|
| ascent grade 2+ |
Mt Aspiring |
5 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness, good balance |
|
|
|
| ascent grade 3 to 4+ |
Mt Cook/Aoraki 6 or 7 days route dependent |
7 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, advanced mountaineering course |
|
| ascent grade 3+ |
Mt Tasman |
6 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, high fitness, good crampon skills |
|
| alpine rock ascent |
Mt Tutuko |
4 |
any |
1:1 |
alpine rock |
Endurance, good balance, previous rock climbing |
|
|
| rock |
Ready to Rock Course |
3 |
any |
1:4 |
rock |
none |
|
|
|
| rock |
Multi-pitch Rock Course |
6 |
any |
1:2 |
rock |
Good fitness |
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
all |
none |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| MARCH |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| alpine trek course |
Darran Mountains alpine rock week |
7 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| intro skills course |
Mountain Skills Course - NZ's best course |
7 |
set dates |
1:4 |
intro course |
Prior outdoor experience |
|
|
|
| ascent course |
Mt Aspiring Expedition Course |
8 |
any |
1:2 |
adv course |
Previous mountaineering, good fitness |
|
|
|
| private course |
Private Instruction Course |
6-10 |
any |
1:4 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| climbing week |
Summit Week |
7 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| ascent |
4 Day Ascents - Barth, Dixon, Minarets, Earnslaw |
4 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness & endurance, good balance |
|
|
| ascent grade 2+ |
Mt Aspiring |
5 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness, good balance |
|
|
|
| ascent grade 3+ |
Mt Tasman |
6 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, high fitness, good crampon skills |
|
| alpine rock ascent |
Mt Tutuko |
4 |
any |
1:1 |
alpine rock |
Endurance, good balance, previous rock climbing |
|
|
| rock |
Ready to Rock Course |
3 |
any |
1:4 |
rock |
none |
|
|
|
| rock |
Multi-pitch Rock Course |
6 |
any |
1:2 |
rock |
Good fitness |
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
any |
none |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| APRIL |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| intro skills course |
Mountain Skills Course - NZ's best course |
7 |
set dates |
1:4 |
intro course |
Prior outdoor experience |
|
|
|
| ascent course |
Mt Aspiring Expedition Course |
8 |
any |
1:2 |
adv course |
Previous mountaineering, good fitness |
|
|
|
| private skills |
Private Instruction Course |
6-10 |
any |
1:4 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| climbing week |
Summit Week |
7 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
intro or adv |
none |
|
|
|
| ascent |
4 Day Ascents - Barth, Dixon, Minarets, Earnslaw |
4 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness & endurance, good balance |
|
|
| ascent grade 2+ |
Mt Aspiring |
5 |
any |
1:2 |
ascent |
Good fitness, good balance |
|
|
|
| ascent grade 3+ |
Mt Tasman |
6 |
any |
1:1 |
ascent |
Previous mountaineering, high fitness, good crampon skills |
|
| alpine rock ascent |
Mt Tutuko |
4 |
any |
1:1 |
|
Endurance, good balance, previous rock climbing |
|
|
| rock |
Ready to Rock Course |
3 |
any |
1:4 |
rock |
none |
|
|
|
| rock |
Multi-pitch Rock Course |
6 |
any |
1:2 |
rock |
Good fitness |
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
any |
none |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| MAY |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
any |
none |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| JUNE - winter |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| ice course |
Winter waterfall Ice Climbing |
3 or 4 |
set course dates |
1:4 |
intro course |
none |
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
1 |
1:1 or 1:2 |
any |
none |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| JULY - winter |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| ice course |
Winter waterfall Ice Climbing |
3 or 4 |
set course dates |
1:4 |
intro course |
none |
|
|
|
| snow hikes |
Black Peak Hikes or local snow treks |
1-3 |
any |
1:4 |
snowshoe |
none |
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
all |
none |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| AUGUST - winter |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| ice course |
Winter waterfall Ice Climbing |
3 or 4 |
set course dates |
1:4 |
intro course |
none |
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
all |
none |
|
|
|
| snow hikes |
Black Peak Hikes or local snow treks |
1-3 |
any |
1:4 |
snowshoe |
none |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| SEPTEMBER |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| ascent grade 2+ 3+ |
Mt Aspiring |
5 |
any |
1:2 |
|
Good fitness, good balance |
|
|
|
|
alpine ice ascent |
SF Douglas Peak - grade 5 alpine ice |
6 |
any |
2:1 |
|
Previous mountaineering, advanced mountaineering course |
|
| snow hikes |
Black Peak Hikes or local snow treks |
1-3 |
any |
1:4 |
snowshoe |
none |
|
|
|
| 1 day skills |
Sharpen Up |
1 |
any |
1:1 or 1:2 |
all |
none |
|
|
|
